What To Do If You’re Falling Out Of Love With Cairo

You are probably deafened by the frenzied concert of horns, drained by the shifting labyrinth of obstacles in every street, and sickened by the dust, the heat and the rubbish. But the mother of all cities has some furtive secrets that keep drawing you into her arms:

Get up early on a Friday morning. Really early. Walk across Qasr El-Nil bridge and let the Nile pour its favorite shade of pink on your cheek. Go alone, let the mid-spring wind hear you humming your favorite song while the city still sleeps.

Head towards the markets of Boulaq. Sit in one of the ahwas on El-Gedid Street, order some tea, and observe. The bread-carrier, the hawawshi maker, the old man smoking shisha in the front table. There’s something soothing about their chilled Friday pace. If you get hungry, head to Abu Rami for some quality kofta in the open air. It’s unusually quiet on Fridays.

Talk to strangers. In Cairo, it goes without saying that it’s part of the daily chores, but you may this time as well submerge into their lives. Ask them about their family, their childhood, their dreams. Chances are their contagious grin will flood your face with smiles.

Walk–for real. Take the streets you’ve never taken. Make it your goal to reach Dokki’s King’s rooftop before sunset and sit in front of a window. From the height of the terrace, let the city’s hundred mosques dedicate to you its finest twilight melody.